The St. Croix Valley Riders

Southeastern Minnesota Scenic Byway Tour

There are 5 designated Scenic Byway Roads in this corner of the state.
Four are recognized by the state and the other has national recognition.
To get to them and give them a ride you have to go south on HWY 61, (Great River Road) an enjoyable ride in itself.

The Apple Blossom Scenic Byway begins just north of Donehower, MN off Hwy 61, which is County 3 and winds atop the bluffs, heading south, offering great vistas of the Mississippi River Valley.
You'll cross I-90 and County 3 will become County 12. Continue south where County 12 becomes County 29 just outside Le crescent, Mn and back onto Hwy 61 south. The route is a 17 mile drive.

Continuing south of Le crescent, Mn, take Hwy 25 to Hokah, MN, where you will come to Hwy 16 the Historic Bluff Country Scenic Byway that heads due west for 88 miles.
Late last September is when this trip was taken and the town was still bailing out their structures from 5" of rain they had gotten weeks earlier.
It was a mess!
I wanted to stop at a few local attractions but the streets were barricaded, trucks were hauling, ect.
On down the road we continued.
We came upon another town that was hit pretty hard as well. We were looking to stop and have a cold one, because it was unseasonably hot, but nothing was open. The commercial area was still closed from the flooding.
From the Scenic Byway hugs the banks of the Root River. Through and onto Lanesboro, MN the road winds through hardwood forests that were just approaching peak foliage. The rolling of the distant bluffs and the scenery of the river bottoms made for what I felt was the best "byway" of the collection.
Further on down the road is Lanesboro and stopping there is a must!
Staying the night would have been an even better bet.
The village has a couple of well known B&Bs, but there was a small hotel above a bar as we came in. We already had lodging, so I cannot recall the name.
But this would have been a better place to stay over compared to our reservation in Preston.
The town is small and quaint, and very picturesque along the river. The bar we stopped at next to the German Deli had a vast selection of tap beer and free peanuts. Great place to cool off from this hot, late September day.
Continuing on towards Preston, just outside of Lanesboro is a small wayside park that offers great views of the surrounding valleys.
Preston, MN had me thinking it was one of the bigger towns in the area, being the county seat, but once we got there we knew we would have enjoyed Lanesboro much more for an overnight.
The motel we had a room reserved was alright, it was just that the town had nothing for night life.
A short walk up the hill from the motel was the downtown, but with only one bar and a pizza joint it was sparse.
The bar was called the Serviceman's Club and looked straight out of the 1940s.
It turned out to be a VFW or American Legion.
Even being in there, I couldn't tell to what post or chapter of which organization it was.
About the only noteworthy thing about this town that I can recall is a rather strange storefront business.
Walking back to the motel down a side street from Main, was a small structure almost like a fish house.
Here inside, sat an older women reading a book. A hand written sign stated - popcorn for sale.
On a side street, in a dead town, in a fish house looking shack, some local was thinking there's big business in selling popcorn and only popcorn, on a Friday night in southeastern Minnesota.
Totally bizarre!

The next morning we headed out early to ride this byway to try and catch the amish on the roads. We saw a few and passed a roadside stand where they were selling produce. The route takes you through the farm lands where they reside. You can tell which farms are there's by the lack of utility poles heading towards the farm buildings. Some sections were scenic, but not as much as HWY 16. Still, a nice ride in this part of the state. We continued on east to Niagara Cave which is just a few miles outside of Harmony, MN. The cave offers tours and we got there just in time to tour with a bunch of elementary school kids. The cave has an underground waterfall, a bridal chamber, and all the other attractions worthy of amateur spelunkers delights.
North of Preston is also the Mystery Cave, part of the Forrestville State Park system. This cave offers a longer tour with spectacular underground lakes. The Root River travels through the park and actually disappears into the bluff - goes underground.
Forrestville is an old historic site of a town by this name. It's all gravel roads from the park entrance that winds about a mile to an old bridge that crosses the Root and you can see the original buildings of the once thriving town. Tour guides dressed in period costumes provides walking tours. It is set in a beautiful valley and is well worth th trip down the gravel.

The state's first designated Wildflower Route is maintained by the state to grow native grasses and wild flowers.
This area of the state is known as the Driftless Area. An area untouched by the effects of glaciers that shaped the lands to the east. The route passes through rich agricultural regions and passes through small towns with historic buildings with national significance. 32 miles in length.

Travel the scenic route that Laura wrote about in the "Little House" series. Almanzo and Laura Ingalls Wilder attended the 1876 church in Spring Valley in 1890 and 1891. See Wilder photo display, old-time Country Store, and pioneer artifacts. Visit the Masters Hotel in Burr Oak, Iowa, where Charles Ingalls and his family lived and worked in 1876. This is the ONLY childhood home of Laura's still standing on its original site. This is "the missing link" between the times they lived in Walnut Grove. This highway links with the other Laura Ingalls Wilder Sites in Pepin, Wisconsin; Walnut Grove, Minnesota; and DeSmet, South Dakota.

This tour of SE MN was accomplished over a four day weekend. It was a little tight to see and ride all the designated byways so I'd suggest perhaps another day or simply reduce your expectations to see all this section of the state has to offer. The rolling bluff country is a must ride!
4 Star Road Captain Rating!

Upper Iowa River Valley

I first heard about the Upper Iowa River from an article I read in the National Geographic magazine. It was recognized as one of the most scenic canoe trips in the country.
Having canoed a few rivers in my past, the wife and I planned a weekend trip to this region of north central Iowa.
The river actually begins in southern Minnesota, but winds it's way through the limestone bluffs of northeastern Iowa before it drains into the Mississippi.
The Upper Iowa is much like the Apple River in Somerset WI, only wider. It cuts it's way through the limestone bluffs of the region.
The ride down I took US 52 south to Harmony, MN. In Harmony I found HWY 139 which took us into Iowa. The first town you come to in Iowa is Kendalville. Here your get your first glimpse of the Upper Iowa River.
There is canoe rental and camping available here. This is the longest canoe trip about 6-8 hours depending on current.
Follow 139 till you hit IA HWY 9. Hwy 139 ends at this junction. You'll want to take the road heading straight east (to your left) and follow that to Bluffton, IA.
In Bluffton your'll find a quaint little river village among old oak trees. There are two campgrounds along the river across from each other. Randy's is a bit more developed than Hruska's, with a store/bar/cafe. Both offer canoe rentals. Hruska's is a little more quieter and private along with being cheaper to both camp and rent a canoe. If you want the nightlife Randy's Bluffton Store and Bar has to offer, just wade across the river. A short walk and your there. The bridges in the area date back a few decades, but they're cool despite they're appearing rather rickety.
We decided to rent a double person kayak rather than a canoe due to the seats had back support. Seeing we'd been riding all day, a little support would help tomorrow morning.
We were hauled about three miles up river and set sail. The scenery along the river was incredible!

The sheer limestone bluffs tower over most of the river A natural spring runs from the base of the bluff into the river

No need to paddle unless you have deadlines Many of the amazing chimney rocks along the river

One of the rickety looking area bridges The 'Palisades' just before Bluffton, IA

Evergreen Bluff Just another bend in the river

After a night on the banks of the river, we had one more night to plan as we didn't have reservations till the next evening.
We rode over to the Mississippi River towns of Marquette and McGregor. We took HWY 9 east with a beer stop in Waukon at what appeared to be the only bar in town. We were met by the barmaid who went onto explain how she escaped inner city Chicago and settled here with her parents and boyfriend. I couldn't believe the amount of culture shock she must of had to endure those first years!
HWY 9 runs into HWY 76, which takes you into Marquette, IA. This little river town has a riverboat casino on the banks of the river. we just had to try our luck.
After burning up most of the afternoon in the casino, we felt it better to start looking for a place for the overnight. Not wanting to stay anywhere near the casino for obvious reasons we headed back toward Decorah. The county seat of Winneshiek County.
A few towns out we started calling to make a reservation as it was getting late and being a Saturday night.
Nothing but one room left in the surrounding 50 miles. In a town called Postville, IA we told them we'd take it over the phone and started heading that way.
Postville was a unique town. Decimated earlier on by the closing of the local slaughter house, it was just getting back to it's former self. The remnants of the slaughter house was bought out by a sect of orthodox jews where they setup a kosher style slaughter and packing operation. Main Street was divided between the long generations of the original settlers to the area to the newly arrived Hispanic laborers of the packing house.
I was warned to watch out also for the Russians. Also newly arrived and capable of anything.
Great.
The motel was worn out but clean, and for $37 on a Saturday night, was a bargain.
After buck burgers and two dollar beers at the "locals" bar on Main Street, we headed back before dark.
In a town split between locals, ultra-conservative jews, illegal? Mexicans, and the dreaded russkies, we thought to save our night life for tomorrow.

The Postville Motel

We struck out early Sunday morning, to catch a few of the Iowa Scenic Byways. Like Minnesota, Iowa also has a scenic byway program. Each are identified by signage along the roads. Many great roads!
HWY 18 west of Postville, HWY 150 to Festina, B231 to Frankville, and the short distance of HWY 52 going into Decorah.
Decorah is the county seat of Winneshiek County and where the restored landmark of the city is; The Winneshiek Hotel.
Built in the 1800s it has a unique octagonal lobby which is a must see if even your just passing through!
Situated right on Main Street, it is a great place to stay in a beautifully and elegant historic hotel.

The lobby looking to Main Street entrance From lobby looking up to 2nd floor

and up to 3rd floor Marble columns and fireplace of lobby

Decorah proved to be an entertaining town. With all the shops and bars within walking distance and the historic sights all close by. I really enjoyed this part of Iowa. I may not say that often about this state as I have traveled through a majority of it, I did have a good time on this trip though.
One oddity unique to this region was the Turkey Vulture. I never had seen one before. They's soar above the city in the evening looking like a flock of eagles. After asking a local about them he disgustingly commented "Turkey Vultures, the damn things".
"The ain't much good 'cept for shitting all over the place."
I seen one on the side of the road. Big as a tom turkey.
The weather turned cold and gray as we hit the last attraction of the trip.
Across the Upper Iowa River in Decorah are the Ice Caves. On the way out of town we stopped and were surprised to find a waterfall park along the way. Both the cave and waterfall were the final compliment to this WEEKEND RIDEAWAY!

The falls Steps to Ice Cave Partially filled entrance to cave

Down South Wisconsin

It was beer, Frank Loyd Wright, and fiberglass cows that prompted this Rideaway.

Deep in south central Wisconsin are the cities of Spring Green, New Glarus, and Monroe.
Spring Green has unique and historically significant architecture. New Glarus and Monroe - beer.
The fiberglass cows reside also in New Glarus.

We headed down HWY 61 in MN, over to La Crosse, WI to hook up onto HWY 35 south.
A brief few miles south I turned onto Hwy 14/61 through Coon Valley and on to Westby through Viroqua, which I thought about stopping for a cold one.
Coon Valley to Westby the road cuts through a beautiful valley. Great riding here!
I'm glad we didn't stop because before, because just outside of Readstown was a small supper club along the Kickapoo River.
Quaint was the older establishment's surroundings as we watched the staff prepare for the Friday night dinner crowd.
I couldn't refuse another cold one as the long ride was half way over for the night.
But that was before I realized that the next town, Richland Center, was having a Country Fest that weekend and the traffic couldn't be worse for that size of town. The 36 miles we were away from Spring Green took forever.
HWY 14 hugs some river that by 2 different maps has no name. It's a nice stretch, but I can't give you more than that.
From Gotham (no I didn't see Batman) to Spring Green it gets very scenic as you get closer to the Wisconsin River.

We had booked a room for the night in Spring Green, at the Frank Loyd Wright inspired Usonian Motel .
It was old, built in the mid 50s, but it had unique character and charm. Great place to stay!
The next morning we headed south to Taliesin, FLWs summer home that is now open for tours and has an archetectural school on the grounds. But for $50 a head we passed on the tour.
South of Taliesin, is House on the Rock. We stopped there and took the tour which was well worth it.
House on the rock is built on a tall chimney rock overlooking a valley. It started out as a weekend camping spot for the guy who founded it. He would repallel up to the top and pitch a tent. The tent gave way to structures made out of the native limestone and the additions grew from there. Certainly a must see.!
Further south to New Glarus, the same rolling countryside provided a great riding experience.
The town of New Glarus is built to resemble a swiss village. All the buildings have that chalet look and feeling. We got there for the weekend celebration of Heidi Fest. The whole town was decked out in swiss, with a parade, ethnic foods, and cultural events happening throughout the weekend. A truly enjoyable occasion.
We took a tour of the New Galrus Brewery. A husband and wife team who started the business and are succeeding quite well founded this brewery. Following the tour you're giving a souviener glass in which to sample there many different flavors.
Under 20 miles south is Monroe, WI, where the Joshua Huber Brewing Company is. Another great brewery tour in an old world style brewery. Worth the trip down!
On the way back we took Hwy 39 east to Mineral Point, WI.
This town is one of the original silver mining operations in the state. The Pendarvis Cornish Historical site is worth seeing. Cornish miners lived in an area of town called Shake Rag Street and some of the miner's cabins are restored to their original condition. Deffineately worth a stop in this town rich in history.
If you travel further south from Mineral Point on Hwy 23, you continue in the area of the early mining years of Wisconsin.
With towns called Lead Mine and New Diggings. Stop at the New Diggings Store and Bar. It is really a trip back in time!
Continue east and catch Hwy 35 to head back north along the Mississippi.
This was one of the most enjoyable weekend Rideaways I've experienced to date!

Other Rideaways to consider:

Wisconsin's Rustic Roads
Ride 10 designated Rustic Roads and earn a patch from WI DOT!

Minnesota's Scenic Byways
Ride all 22 designated state byways!